The New Comfort Zone

What’s not to love about 2014 trends in the bridal market?

This year, brides are hard-pressed to find something they dislike, as designers are giving them choices galore in terms of necklines, silhouettes and embellishment details. With brides flocking to social media for nonstop ideas, there’s a sense that brides are stepping out of comfort zones and want more choices from designers to feed their sartorial wedding dreams.

“The past couple of years felt safe, and this year designers took more chances and offered more breadth,” says Anna Walsh, owner of two Denver bridal boutiques, Anna Be and A Be Bridal Shop.

Topping the list were the selection of necklines parading down the runways. Strapless gowns had to make room for alternatives, such as silky cowl necks, shoulder straps, V-necks, cap sleeves and elbow sleeves.

Some highlights were the less-than-demure, bias-cut sheath gown with a plunging cowl neckline by Sarah Janks, along with the designer’s ladylike cap-sleeved silk marocain gown with a neckline framed in delicate, beaded French lace. Leanne Marshall’s looks included a coy lace gown with lace elbow sleeves.

And, Modern Trousseau paid homage to décolletage with a Thai silk ballgown featuring a draped bodice with off-the-shoulder straps.

“There isn’t just one neckline choice anymore,” Walsh says. “Brides can really pick and choose what they want. It used to be, I had only three dresses that weren’t strapless in the store.”

At the same time, there were more riffs on strapless looks with the help of illusion styles, a trend that shows no abatement. Modern Trousseau offered a cap-sleeve look made of Alencon lace over a blush silk duchess gown. An ivory and nude lace gown with an organza skirt by Leanne Marshall and a trumpet dress by Amy Kuschel, done in primrose lace with an appliqué of French grand peony, are feeding the fascination of modest, yet skin-baring looks.

“These gowns provide a level of comfort for brides who don’t want to feel overexposed,” says Leanne Marshall, the “Project Runway” season five winner, who also launched a diffusion bridal line for the season.

The Backs Have It

For those brides eager to show off a little skin, designers didn’t disappoint. Dramatic backs emerged as another recurring trend, whether detailed with beading or cut oh-so low, because of the way they flatter figures. Amy Kuschel kept the look sweet with scalloped edges and bows on her gowns. Designs by Katie May that featured completely open backs, like the corded lace slim-fit style, as well as Sarah Janks gowns, such as the shape-hugging, handkerchief gown with embroidered appliqué and a deep V- back, caught the eye of retailers, including Ivy Kaplin, owner of Lovely Bride in Philadelphia.

“Wearing it is definitely a confidence thing,” Kaplin says. “Designers are taking it to the next level … and showing off the body in all the right ways.”

Lest brides worry that they can’t pull off the look, bear in mind that lingerie makers are selling those bare essentials — undergarment support concepts — at a variety of price ranges. Nordstrom sells the “Uplunge” backless strapless underwire bra with wings to hold the bra in place. Kleinfeld Bridal sells the way-upmarket line of Ender Legard Corsetry, which offers backless bodices. And, HerRoom.com sells Braza Reveal Silicone Bras, which are just cups available in nude and clear.

Lace, Lace, Lace

The fabric of choice for the season again seems to be lace, lace and more lace, catering to brides’ sense of romance and whimsy.

“Brides still want to take a few risks, but they want something that feels luxurious and modern and vintage that can be an heirloom,” says Lynn Annatone, marketing director for Modern Trousseau.

Less was not more as designers experimented with texture and layered laces, such as Chantilly and Alencon and Guipure and Venice over a Chantilly layer. Lace was in abundance at Modern Trousseau, which offered the fit-and-flare gown with off-the-shoulder straps and a scalloped neckline and a cap-sleeved style in Alencon lace over a silk duchess gown. Amy Kuschel incorporated lace in layers and accents, such as in a strapless gown with a flared hem and scalloped edge. Anna Maier Ulla-Maija Couture offered a fluted floral lace gown with a high-neck and a one-shoulder column gown over silk double charmeuse.

Lea Ann Belter Bridal mixed and matched the fabric as exemplified by a silk dupioni gown layered with three kinds of French lace ending in tiers of sheer silk organza and sequin-dotted tulle ruffles.

It may sound as if designers are going head-over-heels overboard and creating overwrought fashions, but retailers praise the direction, which keeps lace chic and youthful.

“It seems like a lot, but it wasn’t,” says Stacy Fork, owner of The Gown Shop in Ann Arbor, Mich. “It gives us something new to present to the traditional bride.”

Designers also stepped up their beading with beaded sheaths and dazzling corsets, inspired by the sparkle and fun of Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby” movie and Old Hollywood glamour. Anna Maier showcased an empire-waist pleated ballgown with a bodice glittering with silver thread and crystal beading and a duchess satin gown embroidered in pewter and bronze. Maggie Sottero featured a beaded dress with layers, necklines and shoulder straps. Sarah Janks incorporated a belt made of beaded French lace roses on an airy ballgown strung with beads and made of tulle and silk gazaar.

“We use a lot of tulle as a base for the embellishment to counter the surface interest,” Janks says. “There has to be a balance … so it doesn’t overwhelm the wearer.”

Subtle sparkle was even on display on Leanne Marshall’s collection with her use of hand-beaded lace. It’s an about-face for Marshall, who says for the longest time she avoided using anything reminiscent of shine.

“I grew up designing my own dance costumes so I had my fill of sequins for a lifetime,” Marshall says. “But, the last few seasons, it’s been growing on me to try something more subtle with nice shimmer.”

© Brides 365

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