New York Fashion Week 2016: Show reviews

New York Fashion Week is back!

Feb. 11-18, designers will show their Fall Winter collections on runways, platforms and who knows what else throughout the city.

Read on for reviews of the latest shows, from your favorite iconic New York designers to those making their NYFW debuts.

FENTY PUMA by Rihanna

When Puma announced a little more than a year ago that Rihanna would be its new women’s creative director, the earth shifted. Or so it seemed. She started small, with a collection of creepers sneakers — and the fashion world snatched them so fast you’d think we’d never seen shoes before. Such is the power of RiRi.

Now imagine the buzz in the room at the start of her first Fashion Week runway show, held in J.P. Morgan’s old bank on Wall Street. Uh … ka-ching is in the air once again. Her Fenty line (her last name is Fenty, by the way) includes menswear and womenswear … and it was molten-lava hot.

Like the women’s jumpsuit with barely pulled together lacing that curved from cleavage over to thigh and down the leg. Or the corset hoodie. The low-slung boxer shorts. The low-cut sailor shirt (her fans are her “navy”). Sexxxy. Plus the fab oversize furry hoodies, fuzzy backpacks, new creepers (of course) and spike-heel sneaker booties. Will people buy? Probably — her influence in this industry feels as potent as Steve Jobs’ once did in his. Better get your orders in early. — Joseph V. Amodio (Credit: AFP / Getty / Timothy A. Clary)

Nicole Miller

Talk about getting cold feet — Nicole Miller’s audience felt it literally when the smoke machines switched on and a cool steamy mist engulfed the floor.

Paparazzi, some hunched low along the runway, looked like they were rising from the primordial ooze. It all made for a mysterious, icy vibe, as models stormed down the runway, proving you could still be fierce wearing — wait, what was this? — eyelet, lace and crochet.

The collection of high-necked dresses, with ruffles or tiered patchwork panels separated by sheer slits, looked like, um, granny dresses. But granny never flashed skin like this. Leave it to Nicole to dream up the sexy (and wearable) granny dress, with her signature prints: vibrant, offbeat. The footwear looked built for serious cold, especially the high-heel lace-up mukluks. And given that our feet felt like popsicles by the end, well … she should’ve started selling them right away. — Joseph V. Amodio

(Credit: Getty Images / Neilson Barnard)

Milly

Milly showed a darker side on the runway this season with navy, emerald and black pieces dominating the collection. Designer Michelle Smith cited “the sensuality of the female form” as her inspiration for the new line, “The Intimacy of Winter,” as a program labeled the show.

Models in dark lingerie and unbuttoned overcoats, flouncing mini-dresses with lacy bralettes visible underneath as well as some more modest knit wool and trouser ensembles, strutted in Manolo Blahniks through a maze-like runway as hip-hop blared throughout the Pier 59 studios. Enough ruffles and tailored skirts made this collection identifiably Milly, though with added edginess: Think black bandeau over a navy turtleneck. So intimately winter chic. – Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Melissa Kravitz)

Polo Ralph Lauren

It was back to prep school season at Polo Ralph Lauren. A cool kids after-school soiree at the designer’s Madison Avenue headquarters had models lounging on leather club chairs, mingling with guests and serving tiny yet pretentious finger foods (a cherry tomato BLT the size of a quarter, for instance).

Models in hues of gray, beige, tan, brown and just enough New York black hung out with the voyeurs planning to emulate the looks come fall. Chunky socks with loafers and open sandals, sequins and wool sweaters paired together, tweed on plaid and plenty of textured layering were even appropriate for the current season.

With more and more designers showing ready-to-buy collections, satisfying the shoppers’ need for instant gratification, this was one more example of the waning relevance of NYFW. We liked it, but we want it now. Looks like we’ll have to wait until next semester. — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Getty Images / Brian Ach)

Jason Wu

Does Jennifer Hudson — sitting front-row at Jason Wu’s packed show — like the deconstructed look? “Deconstructed” is usually code for arty (fashion students), to-die-for (fashionistas) or pretty-impossible-to-wear (the rest of us). But Wu proves it can be done with a delicate hand, to fantastic effect. Like the window-pane-print wool dress with cut-out back, or the camel rib-knit sweater pulled down off the shoulders and open in back, tied with bands of ribbon. Everything had a lightness to it, from the camel strapless dress with sprigs of floaty feathers to that long brown leather coat with white fur collar tied up top with a ribbon that trailed down the sides. This collection is feminine, wearable and will look great on any woman — whether you’ve got an Oscar at home or not. — Joseph Amodio (Credit: Getty Images)

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Tadashi Shoji

It was a new direction for designer Tadashi Shoji, who toned down his traditional froth fest and went tribal on the collection. Inspiration included tattoo parlors transformed into “dress making ateliers,” notes said, and sequins replaced the painterly brush strokes of tribal body painters. To that end, there were more than a few mesh bodysuits that literally looked painted on and featured embellished, sparkly geometric patterns.

“It’s new for him,” said one brand rep, adding that the uber-body-con looks would suit the likes of Jennifer Lopez.

Still, there were plenty of more forgiving looks, including billowy gowns with holograph-like sequin embellishment — very pretty.  Oversized faux furs — one in dark leaf green — smacked of the ’70s and boasted a casual cool. Colors ran neutral — black and ivory predominant — along with some copper and gold metallics and a touch of sapphire.

Necar Zadegan, who plays cutthroat attorney Delia, the mega-fashion plate on Bravo hit “The Girlfriend’s Guide to Divorce,” sat front row, and mused about getting Tadashi into the fashion mix.  “I’d like to use Tadashi on the show,”  she said.  — Anne Bratskeir

(Credit: Getty Images)

Kate Spade

Live music, champagne and breakfast-themed finger foods (OK, French fries with dainty ketchup bottles) welcomed guests to the Rainbow Room on Friday morning, where models in nude makeup and Spade’s newest styles posed on a rotating stage under the ballroom’s elegant chandelier.

Though the presentation of women on a pedestal was questionable (think Sofia Vergara’s widely panned Emmy’s bit), models elegantly and playfully showed off a mod collection featuring accessories including Russian-style fur hats, bejeweled sunglasses and masculine-cut tuxedo tops, coats and pants, making for a lighthearted morning that could make one nostalgic for a former, more formal version of New York she never even lived in. This is the way to sell clothes. — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Melissa Kravitz)

Go Red For Women Red Dress Collection

On one of the coldest days of the year, one show in particular warmed hearts.

The Red Dress Collection, that joyous runway romp, closed the first day of New York Fashion Week with style, grace and laughter. Sponsored by the American Heart Association and Macy’s, the show featured a diverse group of celebrity models wearing designer red dresses to generate awareness of the dangers of heart disease for women.

The models were r-e-a-l-l-y in it: Florence Henderson (in Pamella Roland), would have shocked the daylights out of her beloved character Carol Brady with her vampy runway moves. Likewise, Fran Drescher (wearing La Petite Robe di Chiara Boni) had the audience roaring as she rummaged through her purse on the runway — she powdered her face and brushed her hair as she walked — absolutely hilarious. The “Today” show’s Tamron Hall (in Romona Keveza) brought some feisty dance moves to the catwalk, though no one was more graceful than Misty Copeland, the first African-American principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre. A guy in the front row actually bowed down onto the runway as she swished past him — she blew him a kiss. Skylar Diggins (in Michael Costello), the star basketball player, wore sparkly flats with her frothy dress and strode the runway like she meant business while Ta’Rhonda Jones, of the hit show “Empire,” wore a crazy tubular get-up by Conrad Booker. Gigi Gorgeous, the transgender Internet personality, dazzled in a Laurel Dewitt ensemble that resembled the Statue of Liberty. Long Island’s own Madison Beer, the 16-year-old recording artist, looked leggy and lovely in a slinky Halston Heritage number. But leave it to Grammy Award-winning RB singer Monica (regal in Dennis Basso) to get the audience on their feet. She did just that with excellent rendition of “Put a Little Love in Your Heart,” belted out right on the runway. — Anne Bratskeir

(Credit: Getty Images / Frazer Harrison)

Rachel Antonoff

Rachel Antonoff isn’t toying around.

Sister to Fun. frontman Jack Antonoff, the designer took her FW16 presentation in a musical direction with a choreographed performance on the 15th floor of the Grace Building. With the backdrop of the illuminated nighttime NYC skyline, dancers performed to “A Secretary is Not a Toy” from Broadway’s “How to Succeed in Business Without Really Trying” while modeling Antonoff’s fun-spirited, (mostly) business-appropriate collection.

Sartorial secretaries sang, danced and posed in 50s-inspired A-line skirts, flowing blouses and bright patterns that could even make one look forward to midtown secretarial work come this fall. Colorful character shoes were a playful, if not practical, addition to dancers’ and models’ feet — business casual can go comfortable with looks as polished as Antonoff’s. — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Getty Images / JP Yim)

Marissa Webb

When temps plummet and icy winds induce frostbite, you can’t help but dream of fur — well … just a little. But then those PETA ads come to mind, with all those poor little baby lynxes and minks. Enter Marissa Webb, with a smart eye and a knack for making faux fur look just as real– or at least cozy and fun — as the real thing.

Atop fluttery (almost springlike) floral dresses she layered a few choice, vibrant and, yes, faux-fur jackets, vests and a fab tunic-like piece she called a luxe funnel neck “popover.” Looks just as warm as the culinary kind — and just as satisfying. — Joseph Amodio

(Credit: Getty Images)

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Desigual

A head-bopping playlist prominently featuring Grimes — just ask Miss J. Alexander, nodding along in the front row — ushered in models with stick straight hair, flouncing layered outfits and Desigual’s signature quirky-cool style.

Inspired by “the vibrancy of city life and all of its creative lifeblood,” Desigual’s new collection featured an array of patterns in subtle maroons, golds, grays and blues. Mohair, fur and vegan leather (formerly known as pleater) played up the textures in this sprightly collection more likely to be featured on “Girl Meets World” than “Girls.” — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Getty Images / Timothy A. Clary)

Mathieu Mirano

Mathieu Mirano, 24, who hails from Long Island, was inspired by his trips to Egypt and experiencing his first sandstorm there; hence, glamorous models were set in a gigantic sandbox (Louboutins and all) at his Thursday afternoon show at the Piers.

The feeling of the desert winds was something Mirano wanted to capture, he said at the presentation. “I stood still for hours using my sense of physical touch to understand what the wind would appear like if it weren’t transparent.”

The result? His most sophisticated collection yet — all evening — produced in the lightest fabrics — glittering liquid silk, metallics, fringes — in vivid rainbow hues.

Mirano has steadily gained a celebrity clientele, including Lady Gaga, Gwyneth Paltrow and Julianne Moore, and it’s not hard to see why.

 ”His cuts are perfectly on point and his dresses are exquisitely made,” said Harper’s Bazaar executive fashion and beauty editor Avril Graham, who has worn Mirano to major awards ceremonies.

While the clothes were knockout, there were other stars at the show who had little to do with Egypt … giant tortoises frolicked in the sandbox, some ambling right up to the models. (a few of the ladies were frightened while others stroked the gentle giants.)

“The set just looked a little incomplete,” said Mirano, who got the idea from another trip to the Galapagos Islands. ”I originally wanted a mountain lion, but that wasn’t going to fly.”  The tortoises appeared to be having a blast, and we were assured by their animal handler that they were enjoying themselves as will any gal who gets hold of one of Mirano’s gowns or dresses. – Anne Bratskeir

(Credit: Getty Images / Ben Gabbe)

BCBGMAXAZRIA

The vibe was eclectic with a capital “E” at the BCBGMAXAZRIA show where the muse was, “a performer whose individualistic style reveals her artistic ingenuity,” according to notes. It was a funky mash-up set to David Bowie music and styled in a way that quirky girls might pull from their closets – a jumble of this and that. Included in the mix: slashed leggings that read like torn stockings; layers and ruffles galore and a mix of hand knits, raw denim and woolen stripes. Some silos were long and lean affairs with cutouts while others featured curvy, exaggerated lines. A wintery palette of gray, cream and camel was grounded by dark blue. Heavy doses of sparkly Lurex underscored the point: this arty girl wants to shine. -Anne Bratskeir (Credit: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows )

R13

Punk met grunge met goth at R13′s debut NYFW show.

The unfinished wooden floors and exposed brick at Soho Lofts functioned as the perfect natural catwalk for models lumbering in Doc Martens, showing off the former Ralph Lauren designer’s stylishly ripped denim jackets and jeans along with simpler turtlenecks and tees. Transparent eyelash sweaters were shown with nothing worn underneath, for shock value, perhaps, but ready-to-wear did not come to mind with this look.

With R13 jeans retailing at over $300 a pair, those wearing them may want the pants to be the star of the outfit. — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Getty Images / Fernanda Calfat)

Nicholas K

Monochromatic layers defined Nicholas K’s new collection.

An army of models — most with hair wrapped under their chins in a beard-like fashion that will probably not catch on in NYC — walked to techno drum beats and the sounds of nature in calf hair slippers and layered outfits, debuting midnight black, beige, maroon and tan collections.

The standouts, perhaps at least for this attracted by warm-looking, comfortable apparel at 9 a.m. on NYFW’s first morning, were the velvet ensembles, just luminous enough to signify high fashion and not quite colorful or loungey enough to boomerang back to the velour sweatsuit trend. Models poured in the same purple, almost black, lipsticks. A look that will easily be replicated this fall. — Melissa Kravitz

(Credit: Getty Images / Frazer Harrison)

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Elizabeth Kennedy

New York Fashion Week officially begins Thursday Feb. 11, but we had a tantalizing fashion appetizer served up Wednesday night — plus champagne and actual appetizers — by Elizabeth Kennedy, a getting-hotter-by-the-second red carpet designer coveted by stars like Molly Sims, Maura Tierney, Christina Hendricks and “Orange is the New Black” diva Laverne Cox.

Kennedy kicked things off old school with an elegant show held at the Four Seasons. It was like old time Paris — guests sat at tables and banquettes, as models strolled through, stopping here and there, to pose, turn, cock their head, then float on by — all while Beyoncé and Mariah throbbed through loudspeakers. Her classic gowns have a contemporary take — like the paisley strapless with peplum trailing down one side, or a yin-yang-type gown cut vertically down the middle, jet-black on one side, black-and-white beading on the other, and deep-V back, revealing the model’s shoulder tattoo. Other dresses were wrapped with long satin sashes trailing into long trains.

How do you get all that silk in the car? Perhaps Uber has an app for that. — Joseph Amodio

(Credit: Getty Images / Ben Gabbe)

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