There’s an intimate, vintage feel as brides ditch the traditional white dress in favour of soft blues and honeyed tones, writes Tanya Sweeney
There is an intimate, vintage feel to this year’s wedding dresses.
Tanya Sweeney
– Published 08 March 2014 02:30 AM
Irish weddings have always been fairly recession-proof, yet according to experts, 2014 marks the return of the ‘partying like it’s 1999′ event. In the past few years, weddings have become relatively demure affairs. It was out with the ostentatious helicopter entrances and gauche chocolate fountains, and in with quirkier, personal touches.
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This year sees a return to big spending, albeit with a creative and more intimate twist. No detail is left unattended as couples strive to make their day as individual and original as possible. As ever, stylish brides will doff their proverbial cap to the screen – ‘The Great Gatsby’ and ‘Downton Abbey’ still hold firm as big style influences.
Says Aileen Galvin, organiser of last month’s hugely successful Lovebox Wedding Festival (twitter.com/loveboxwedding): “I guess in the past there were constraints for brides and grooms in terms of personalising a wedding, especially when parents were footing the bill.
“Nowadays, the majority of couples are covering the cost of their own weddings and therefore they are choosing to have a day that reflects their own interests and personalities rather than conforming to a pre-packaged offering.
“We are seeing more intimate weddings, where the ratio of family to friends is much more balanced. With so many inspirational online sites such as Etsy and Instagram and a huge amount of wedding blogs, couples have really upped the hands-on approach.”
Kathy Sherry of vintage stylists Dirty Fabulous (dirtyfabulous.com, 01 611 1842) adds: “Our brides are loving the relaxed, boho romance of the 1970s as well as the flirty, informal style of 1950′s tea-length wedding dresses for a chic city wedding. There is also a growing trend towards choosing to wear full-length Juliet tulle veils with their wedding dresses.”
We asked others at the matrimonial coalface for their top wedding predictions for this year; what trends are lasting the test of time and which new flourishes will ensure the ‘wow’ factor.
THE THEME
Dedicated followers of fashion should proceed with caution, according to Betty Stuart at Dublin-based wedding stylists and china hire company Lulabelle (lulabelle vintage.com). “Word to the wise,” she warns. “Be careful of following buzzword trends or getting carried away with gimmicks when planning your wedding. Things change. What is all over Pinterest now can look dated and silly in six months let alone in 20 years, when you are looking back through your photo album.
This year, blues, mint, grey and subdued shades of pink are popular colours in wedding styling, while French chateau style and vintage china add beautiful detail.”
THE HAIR
Brides in the know are making haste to their nearest salon for the IRS (Intensive Restructuring System) treatment, dubbed ‘Hair Botox’. Much like the 12-Week-Blowdry, the treatment tames hair and restores shine. Unlike the 12-Week-Blowdry, however, it doesn’t damage hair, is formaldehyde-free and leaves plenty of bounce, movement and wave. “It’s a great way to restore condition and is ideal for the bride-to-be,” advises John Maher from Dublin salon Queen (queen.ie, 01 478 9633). “As part of the lead-up to the big day we all know that condition is foremost. IRS is the instant conditioning hit, making colour and shape stand out for super down-the-aisle style.”
THE VENUE
According to wedding planner Rosie Meleady (085 727 8526, theweddingplanner.ie), eloping to the Big Apple is big news in 2014. “I’ve had so many enquiries from couples who want a simple, just-for-them ceremony in a Catholic Church in New York, or something at City Hall,” she reveals. “The other big trend I’ve noticed is couples taking both their families to an Italian villa for a week, combining a holiday and their wedding.”
Naoise McNally from wedding planners One Fab Day (onefabday.com, 01 670 8688) has noticed many Irish brides going back to their rustic roots. “Barns, theatres and warehouses are huge,” she says. “Alternative venues with a more informal feel that couples can put a personal stamp on are the thing for 2014.”
THE JEWELLERY
Jewellery designers Fleur Jewellery (fleur jewellery.ie) insist that the vintage look is still holding strong this year: “Think lots of lace, floral hair garlands, long strands of pearls Gatsby style, chandelier earrings of pearls and clear stones like quartz crystal and topaz,” says Fleur Reynolds. “Soft romantic vintage colours like pale pinks and blues are in, gemstones such as rose quartz, chalcedony and apatite bring these colours into jewellery. Brides want jewellery they can wear again and keep for years to come … not cheap costume jewellery.”
Jeweller Paul Costelloe (paulcostelloe jewellery.com) adds: “Less is more. One can never go wrong with a pair of pearl earrings, an exquisite crystal pendant, or a simple, beautiful bracelet.
“Our 2014 collection is undoubtedly inspired by the 1920s era, when femininity was being discovered in a fresh, new and exciting way.”
Colin Weldon in CM Weldon in Powerscourt Townhouse (cmweldon.ie, 01 675 2255) agrees: “Pearl earrings and diamond studs to accentuate the wedding day attire without overwhelming the overall aesthetic are becoming ever more popular. Diamond line bracelets are coming out on top as a favourite to really lift the overall look adding not only that little bit of sparkle but also drawing attention to the hand which holds the most precious piece of all … the engagement ring.”
THE RING
According to Seamus Fahy of Voltaire Diamonds (voltaire diamonds.ie, 01 479 4220), Rory McIlroy’s fiancee Caroline Wozniacki and Georgia Salpa have fallen for the time-honoured halo setting (rings that have diamonds set around a centre diamond).
Yet according to Eoin McDonnell of Precious rings (precious.ie, 01 671 0055), the scallop setting is growing in popularity with
individualists. “A scallop setting is unusual,” he says. “With the scallop setting each diamond is individually held in place by micro claws created from the band itself as part of the scallop drilling process resulting in both the crown, or top of the diamond, and the girdle, or sides of the diamond, being exposed, which results in maximum brilliance.”
THE DRESS
Dresses don’t just come in white or ivory in 2014: “For those tempted but cautious there are delicious honeyed tones of toffee, caramel and gold,” suggests Sheena McDonald Murray, wedding stylist at Pearl Godiva (pearlandgodiva.com, 087 791 8155). “For the more fashion-forward bride, look to soft blues, greys, blush and even bold berry tones for added wow. Stand out crown pieces include Victorian wax masterpieces, which are utterly dreamy sitting above or below a wispy sheer veil.”
Jo Flood from Ciara Bridal at the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre (ciara-bridal.com, 01 671 1546) is in agreement: “There are different trends for 2014, from luxurious soft silks to bold lace gowns. These range from straight figure-hugging dresses that wrap the body beautifully to the more romantic full-skirted gown.
“There are also many exquisite statement dresses with intricate detailing that would be dramatic in any setting. These range from chic silhouettes, breathtaking fabrics including amazing silk laces and utterly romantic soft gowns which are all available in our 2014 collections.”
Mother-and-daughter team Marina O’Riordan and Meghann Mills-O’Riordan, or Dublin’s Myrtle Ivory (myrtleivory.icom, 01 675 3519), have also predicted a sea change for brides: “Gone are the days of a blushing bride in a crisp white dress,” says Meghann. “Colour is the latest addition to collections from Claire Pettibone and David Fielden. Detachable boleros give the style savvy bride two looks for one day – also a clever addition for unpredictable Irish weather.
“Full gowns with beautiful detailing have been rocking the runways for 2014, with polka dot laces, silk box pleats, statement belts and pockets.
“If you don’t wish to go top-to-toe vintage, think little touches like Juliet caps and vintage lace gloves.”
THE MAKE-UP
Niamh Martin, make-up artist (086 389 2100)
With the vintage lace trend becoming evidently more popular these days, women are opting for a stronger lip on their wedding day. A warm raspberry, a pink red or soft plum lip will warm up Irish complexions and stand out in the photos. Lipstick shades I’d highly recommend are ‘Prolong’ or ‘Positively Dashing’ from the Pro Longwear range by MAC. These lipsticks don’t budge and won’t dry up lips. Perfect for the big day.
Make-up artist Ken Boylan (kenboylan.com, 01 679 6060) hinted that the Geisha look is a hot trend: “Corals and cranberry tones are given a fresh twist for spring weddings when blended on the eyes.
“Most women are afraid of pink shades worn on the eyes but I want to show that they don’t have to look scary and that they can be beautiful and wearable – that’s the inspiration behind this Geisha look.
“The key to pulling off this look is having a flawless complexion, so the base is kept ultra light with a touch of BB cream while cheeks are warmed up with a peony-coloured crème blush. Perfect for a modern day blushing bride-to-be.”
THE HEADGEAR
Flapper-style headwear or birdcage veils are still holding firm: “Since ‘Downton Abbey’ hit our screens, brides are looking for the bejewelled glamour of that era,” says designer Stacey Hannan (staceyhannandesigns.com, 087 759 5837) “Dusty gold and silver tones are always popular colour combinations.”
Designer Edel Ramberg (edelrambergdesigns.ie, 086 837 6084) adds: “The birdcage will not suit every face shape and I would always encourage trying on varied lengths of veiling to decide on what’s most suitable. Swirls that wrap around the back of the head and crawl up around the beaded base are really popular especially when they can be incorporated around a chignon or roll. It brings the overall look together.”
THE FOOD
Chef Oliver Dunne of Cleaver East (cleavereast.ie, 01 531 3500) has noticed a shift in attitude towards wedding food of late: “Long gone are the salmon and chicken weddings as the Irish consumer has really embraced our ever-expanding food culture,” he says.
“Couples are now looking for really interesting, exciting food on their wedding day. When it comes to the cake, One Fab Day’s Naoise pinpoints the “naked” trend: “Stacked sponges – left un-iced but decorated with fruit and/or flowers – bring that rustic homemade look to any wedding,” she says.
Claire Barry of Limerick-based wedding stylists White Sage (whitesage.ie, 086 814 0409) suggests a dessert table as an alternative to cake: “At the wedding of Ryan Reynolds and Blake Lively the wedding reception boasted a delectable dessert table, styled by none other than Martha Stewart,” she says. “Surrounding the wedding cake were delicious clotted cream scones, mini tarts, marshmallows and lots more sugary treats.”
Food trucks for ‘the afters’, or even for mains, are also gaining traction (see My Little Piggy vintage truck hire, littlepiggy.ie, or 01 287 8631). “It’s a development from the love of gourmet festival food, where a myriad of options including pizza, hot dogs and even paella are available to treat guests,” adds Naoise.
Yet another alternative – or a handy pre- or post-wedding day party idea – comes courtesy of Host Your Own Roast at the Cliff Townhouse in Dublin.
Guests can enjoy platters and dishes as diverse as roast turbot and roast pork shoulder in a private dining room overlooking St Stephen’s Green. (01 638 3939, theclifftownhouse.com)
THE GROOM
Grooms are edging further towards centre stage, says Aidan Beatty of photography studio The Picture Rooms (thepicturerooms.com, 01 675 3526): “One of the trends that has really stood out is how much the grooms have upped their game in the style stakes,” he notes. “The guys are really making an effort, with braces and bow ties the order of the day.”
Adds Declan Mahon of formal menswear emporium Collar Cuff (collarandcuff.ie, 01 538 8110): “Grooms are keeping it simple this year, wearing matching three-piece suits and stepping away from the traditional tails and contrasting waistcoats look. Slim fit is all the rage. We’re also seeing the groom steer towards skinny ties and bow ties instead of the more traditional cravat. To complete the look a classy tie bar and pocket square finish it off nicely.”
THE COCKTAIL
The signature cocktail is here to stay, and for a knockout recipe (in a good way), mixologist Kevin Hurley of The Liquor Rooms in Dublin (liquorrooms.com, 087 339 3688) recommends the Fraise Sauvage: “Shake 50ml Beefeater Gin, 30ml of the Liquor Rooms’ own strawberry and vanilla cordial and 20ml lemon juice in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Pour over prosecco and garnish with dried rose buds.” We’ll drink to that.
THE PHOTOS
Kate O’Connor of Limerick-based rising photography stars Poppies Me (poppiesandme.ie, 061 275 5152) has noticed a slight shift away from vintage: “It’s all about going rustic now and embracing the landscape,” she says. “Think delicate soft pastel colours. Think outdoor woodland ceremonies. Think the mystical wildness of nature. I am totally loving what is coming our way with this new trend, embracing this dreamy natural feeling means that we will get outside in Ireland’s stunning landscape for some pretty epic shots.”
THE HONEYMOON
Trailfinders’ Jonathan Bridge (01 677 7888, trailfinders.ie/honeymoons) pinpoints three new hotspots for 2014: South Africa, the US west coast and Mexico. “Bookings for South Africa have definitely increased this year,” he says. “The most popular itinerary is Cape Town, driving the Garden Route and finishing with a safari either in the Eastern Cape or The Kruger.
“Vietnam and Cambodia are becoming increasingly popular as well. Cruising, previously thought of as a holiday for older people, continues to grow in popularity in Ireland and many honeymooners take a week-long cruise as part of their two to three-week honeymoon.
“Finally, the more adventurous couples are heading to places like Peru to do the Inca Trail, Brazil, Argentina and Costa Rica.”
White Sage’s Claire Barry has noticed another new direction: “Step forward the ‘MiniMoon’,” she says. “Be it for budget or time restraint, lots of couples are opting for shorter honeymoons. Popular MiniMoon destinations are either short haul destinations such as Paris, Dubrovnik, Amalfi Coast and Venice.”
FINISHING TOUCHES
Again, ‘rustic’ is a term that keeps surfacing. “I’ve noticed that Irish brides are getting more daring with their wedding styling and while vintage is still popular we see a rustic trend coming in, especially this year,” observes Karen Madsen of vintage wedding stationers The Parlour Press (theparlourpress.com).
Plenty of bakers’ twine, craft paper and illustrations. We’re pushing the boat out more these days on a design level which is a lot of fun.”
According to wedding planner Judy Mullins (idoweddingsireland.com, 086 381 9496), cost-conscious brides are creating their own invites: “Because of access to the internet, couples are more inclined to want to design their own,” she says.
Ice-cream vans still raise smiles with guests: “People hire them for their reception, or for after the ceremony,” notes Jonathan Kirwan of Le Crème (lecreme.ie, 01 201 1734). “We’ve done them for festival-themed weddings and high-profile weddings and those who don’t want to spend a lot of money or just want a little extra.”
Vintage-style photobooths are also becoming increasingly fashionable at receptions. Says Daniel Reilly of Dublin Photobooth (dublinphotobooth.com, 01 894 9931): “Replacing disposable cameras and/or party favours at each table, it’s a unique way to offer your guests a personal keepsake from your special day.”
Rosie Mealeady also predicts a tech-backlash: “Couples are taking celebs’ lead and asking guests not to upload photos to social networking sites, and leaving their phones outside the ceremony,” she says.
Previously, I have seen everything from ‘vintage chic’ using flowers that give the just-picked-from-the-garden look to the sophisticated elegance look with an abundance of contemporary style flowers. Orchids have been gracing the pages of every wedding blog and publication over the past couple of years. However, for 2014 we are sure to see the return of some of the more traditional blooms and styles. Crisp whites and elegant creams are definitely the order of the moment with perhaps the odd touch of very soft baby pink or pale lemon. Bold colours are definitely out for this year.
Mary O’Reilly, florist at the Shelbourne Hotel (01 663 4500, shelbourneweddings.ie), notes that the omnipresent jam jars of 2013 are O-V-E-R.
“We’re moving towards gold vessels and lace trims and accessories,” she says. “Ombre looks are very big for this year. Arrangements going from light to dark of the same colour made up of all different flowers and textures give a spectacular and modern look. Mint, grey and nude colours are set to feature strongly for bridesmaids’ dresses and these are very well complemented by pale pinks, corals and yellows.”
LINGERIE
“The trend this year is most definitely toward the feminine, with a lot of lace. Buttons, bows, hooks, lace and more lace. Bras are getting prettier and the matching briefs are now coming in boxer and tanga shapes, as well as the traditional bikini style. Lots of choice. Bridal underwear styles remain classical, with the emphasis on a smooth, sleek, look. However, while buying the seam-free lingerie to go under the dress, brides are also purchasing pretty bra and brief sets and nightwear for the honeymoon… and beyond. The trend is for sensuality and beauty.”
Lingerie Designer Susan Hunter (susanhunter.ie, 01 679 1271)
Reboot: High heels are a step too far for the modern woman
By Felicity Morse
– 06 March 2014
High heels are to feet what cages are to canaries: as much as they show off the canary, they enslave and damage the bird. For years women have been infatuated with this form of footwear, yet now we’re realising we’ve been writing love-letters to our own prison guards.
Sex and the City’s Kristin Davis is the latest high-profile figure to turn her back on stiletto servitude. Earlier this week, she apologised for encouraging women to wear high heels, saying, “I do feel guilt about the heels. It did seem we were trying to say to women, ‘You should be wearing heels like these’. But we definitely weren’t.
“Were they beautiful shoes? Yes. Were they appropriate for the characters? Yes, that’s what women like that wear. But it became a bigger picture thing, where it seemed women should be wearing them every day.”
Squeezing our feet into these fashion Bastilles can lead to irreparable damage.
High heels force our spine and hips out of alignment, they pile pressure on our fragile knee joints, they cause abnormality in the heels (the gruesome-sounding affliction Haglund’s Deformity), as well as inflaming tissue on the soles of the feet and shortening your muscles.
Up to a third of women suffer permanent problems as a result of wearing high heels.
Sarah Jessica Parker recently admitted going to a foot-doctor who told her, “Your foot does things it shouldn’t be able to. That bone there – you’ve created that bone. It doesn’t belong there.”
We are told sliding into high heels makes us feel powerful, taller, stylish and more feminine.
Manolo Blahnik has said that heels “make life more exciting… it’s about elegance… If you are a woman, it’s a way to appeal to the male species, it’s a way to attract”. Christian Louboutin told us something similar.
Even scientists have set out to prove that high heels make us look sexier. Historically, it was never so, but for generations now, high heels have been associated with eroticism. This form of footwear has moved from being a fetish into a fashion item and now high heels are practically an obligation for some women.
It is this that is most worrying and has the potential to do the opposite of what retailers promise when they sell us their tall tales.
This consumerist construct has teetered so far into la-la land that women are now choosing to wear high heels for interviews, believing heels make them look businesslike, well-presented and competent. Some bosses even expect us to wear heels, as a TUC report highlighted. But the truth is, we’re crippling ourselves.
Plus: there’s nothing well-put together about trotting 10 paces behind your male colleague to make it to a meeting on time. Or having your handbags stuffed with a pair of flats instead of a laptop.
Today, high heels are one of the only items of clothing (excluding lingerie) made exclusively for women.
There is nothing empowering about that.
Let’s get men to look us in the eye because they respect us – not because we’re in six-inch heels.
