Combing the world for inspiring bras

What do you do?

My job is to design, create and develop lingerie for the JT One brand. I start by researching trends online through affiliations with brands such as Marks Spencer and at the Design Indaba, which is an incredibly inspiring place where creative minds can come together and share different ways of thinking.

I then build the range and develop the products, working closely with Woolworths’s buying and planning teams.

One of the interesting parts of my job is travelling to the fashion capitals – London, New York and Paris – and to the lingerie capitals in Italy and Spain to gain exposure to the international market.

There are technical as well as creative elements to your job as a bra designer. How do you balance the two?

Lingerie is a specialised business — fit and fabric are non-negotiable. We have to make sure that whatever we produce is fun, but that it also meets the Woolworths standard of fit, comfort and quality.

One can be creative with technical application with new innovations and developments — such as when we’re improving or creating new bra moulds and silhouettes or shapes.

Balance is achieved when you have put in the time to develop the technical specifications for the product’s mould and shape, and then you get to experience the joy of choosing fabrics and detail.

For JT One, this is what makes it stands out. The fit, complemented by the pop of detail, colour and trim, give it a wow factor.

As a designer, what inspires you?

Art, music, culture, iconic brands, festivals and social landscapes are huge influences to me. Ultimately, it’s the customers who inspire the brand. They tell us what they want and what they love. Being able to ensure that women feel confident and beautiful in their own skin is the ultimate inspiration. It’s the reason I got into fashion design and ventured into the lingerie industry.

How much freedom do you have in terms of your designs? Are you required to fit in with the coming trends or can you do your own thing?

Our designs are guided by outerwear and underwear trends, and generally what’s fashionable and what’s relevant. As a team, we have the freedom to incorporate these elements into our designs. The exciting part is playing with the fabric selection and detail.

JT One is a unique brand, so we need to ensure we create a signature style. This allows us the freedom to create products that are representative of our brand, product and customer.

How did you find yourself in this position?

I joined Woolworths seven years ago as a design assistant on a short-term contract. I started working in lingerie and then moved — first to women’s wear and then menswear before rejoining lingerie in the JT One team.

I believe it is quite important that, as you move from job to job — whether between companies or within the same one — you upskill, grow and add more value to your career.

What qualifications do you have, and how do they help you do your job?

I hold a fashion design diploma from the Haute Couture School of Fashion Design in Cape Town.

This qualification has allowed me to enter into a designer position with a good base and a broad understanding of the clothing industry.

When you study fashion design, you learn about fit and making a garment through pattern making, construction through sewing, what makes a successful business and about the industry through business studies.

I do believe there should be more emphasis on computer-aided design drawings — fashion illustration on computer. Many colleges are starting to do this only now, and it’s so important when entering a company such as Woolworths or its suppliers. It’s a vital tool for drawing up the technical specifications.

What do you love most about your job?

Creating products — being able to dive into the design and detail of the product. The really fun part is seeing one’s finished product in store and getting positive feedback from customers. I love working with a brand that has so many creative possibilities. Creating something fun that builds relationships with customers means being strategic and thinking about creating a business, not just about creating an item of clothing.

What mistakes do women tend to make when choosing bras for themselves and how can they avoid them?

The biggest mistake most women make is not knowing their correct bra size, which leads to ill-fitting bras. My advice: get measured for your correct size. Remember, everyone is a different shape and women’s bodies go through so many changes as they go through life.

Also remember that different bra shapes have different uses. Different brands also provide different shapes for different bodies.

• This article was first published in Sunday Times: Business Times

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