From lace to aluminum: ‘Underneath It All’ explores lingerie

They happily jump down the alphabet, lingering long on “B” for babydoll, bikini, bloomers, bodysuit, bodice, brassiere and bustier.

They are lingerie, the lush and lusty undergarments typically worn by women these days that derive from the French word linge or washables, as in faire de linge, “Do the laundry.”

According to Wikipedia, the concept of lingerie as a visually appealing undergarment was developed during the late 19th century by British fashion designer Lady Lucy Duff-Gordon of Maison Lucile, her flagship store in Hanover Square, London.

Duff-Gordon (1863-1935) was a pioneer in developing lingerie that freed women from more restrictive corsets. In 1912, she gained a different kind of fame as a survivor of the Titanic disaster.

PERSONAL POINTS OF VIEW

Through the first half of the 20th century, women wore underwear to alter their outward shape, for hygienic reasons and for modesty.

Flagstaff will soon be treated to the arrival of an innovative exhibition exploring a whole new concept of lingerie through the artwork of 10 women artists who use, interpret and create lingerie as objects or topics in their work.

The exhibit, “Underneath It All: Desire, Power, Memory Lingerie,” has its official opening Tuesday, Jan. 15, at the Coconino Center for the Arts, and will be celebrated with an evening reception Saturday, Jan. 12, at the center.

“The art work for the exhibition is quite provocative and from nationally renowned artists that we have not yet exhibited at the Coconino Center for the Arts,” said Robin Cadigan, CCA gallery director. “It’s exciting to present ‘Underneath It All,’ and all the related programming to the Flagstaff community. Several of the artists are flying in from all over the country and will be speaking the night of the opening reception.”

ART AND SOCIAL ISSUES

Today, lingerie embodies many issues in society, including women’s roles and equality.

“All of the artists confront various issues associated with lingerie, and the exhibit is organized around three main ideas: Desire, power and memory,” said Diane Bronstein, curator of the exhibit. “Sexual politics, gender identification, body image, mass marketing and privacy are ribbons that run through the various works. Some pieces are homages to textile work and workers; some are ironic and witty depictions of idealized female forms.”

These ideas are visually represented through various mediums, including painting, drawing, printmaking, bookmaking, textiles, papermaking, assemblage, sculpture and collage.

“Each artist has a vivid and personal point-of-view and talent,” said Bronstein, whose own work is included in the exhibit.

EDGY, CONTEMPORARY EYE

Bronstein and nine other female artists are featured in the exhibition, including Ingrid Goldbloom Bloch, Julie Harris, Laura Ann Jacobs, Joanne Kaliontzis, Lisa Knox, Erica Spitzer Rasmussen, Diane Savona, Miriam Schaer and Amanda N. Simons.

Bronstein said while the artists in the exhibit employ traditional craft associated with “women’s work,” such as sewing, embroidery, patterns and weaving, they create with an edgy, contemporary eye.

“Others create non-traditional representations of lingerie — as objects of memory through vintage imagery, gender statements or stark depictions,” Bronstein said. “These images portray a range of feelings, from security to loneliness.”

The results are astounding, as artists in the exhibit utilize materials not commonly associated with delicate undergarments: Aluminum cans, paper, hair and playing cards.

REVERSING INTENDED USE

Bronstein herself creates paper “intimate apparel,” and her pieces consist of nude figure drawings on 18-inch by 24-inch newsprint paper, which she then hand sews into bras, girdles, slips, camisoles and corsets. The pose of the artwork determines the size and style of the clothing.

“I love the relationship between the drawings of the nudes and the clothing,” she said. “The juxtaposition of using underwear to reveal nude images reverses the order of underwear’s intended use: Naked skin covered by cloth.”

The provocative poses hint at what the wearer desires fears, or imagines that the apparel reveals.

Bronstein’s pieces have shown around the country, including New York City, Chicago, Denver and regionally in New England. In late 2010, she had a solo exhibit at the Frame 301 Gallery at Monserrat College of Art, where she displayed 23 pieces of clothing on clotheslines.

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE HERE

Bronstein is currently a graphic designer in Boston, and will be the resident artist at the Coconino Center for the Arts center during the duration of the exhibition.

While she is in Flagstaff, Bronstein will be creating new work in the studio space at the center, teaching workshops publicly and in schools, and giving talks and presentations to the community.

A series of special events will highlight some of the more esoteric side of lingerie, such as the talk by Erica Spitzer Rasmussen, “Garment as Metaphor,” which explores the development of her sculptural works.

“I used clothing as subject matter because it allows me a ground on which to investigate identity and corporeality,” Rasmussen explained. “My garments can encompass narrative qualities, illustrate and dissolve bodily fears, or act as talismanic devices; to protect myself and loved ones from physical injury or psychological harm.”

Beginning in Minneapolis last summer, this has been a traveling exhibition and will be moving on to Massachusetts and New York after its run in Flagstaff.

Betsey Bruner can be reached at bbruner@azdailysun.com or 556-2255.

IF YOU GO …

WHAT: “Underneath It All: Desire, Power, Memory Lingerie,” a traveling art exhibit exploring body image, gender and sexuality.

WHEN: On display,Jan. 15 through Feb. 16. Gallery hours are Tuesdays – Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

WHERE: Coconino Center for the Arts, 2300 N. Fort Valley Road

INFO: Call the center at 779-2300 or visit www.culturalpartners.org

WHAT: Opening Reception for both exhibits

A free event with entertainment, refreshments, as well as gallery talks

by some of the artists featured in the exhibition.

WHEN: Saturday, Jan. 12, from 6 to 8 p.m.

Diane Bronstein, resident artist, will give a brief talk about the exhibition at 7 p.m.

WHERE: Coconino Center for the Arts, 2300 N. Fort Valley Road

Schedule of Events

Several special events will be presented in conjunction with the exhibition, all taking place at the Coconino Center for the Arts, 2300 N. Fort Valley Road.

– Pre-reception Artists’ Presentations, Saturday, Jan. 12, at 5 p.m.

Two of the participating artists will give short presentations prior to the Opening Reception for Underneath It All.

The first topic will be “Unexpected Materials in Unexpected Places,” a tactile talk by Ingrid Goldbloom Bloch who will talk about how she transforms everyday objects into something entirely different from their intended purpose. The second topic will be “Garment as Metaphor,” by Erica Spitzer Rasmussen, who discusses the development of her sculptural works through slides and stories.

– Workshop: Create Paper Purses, Saturday, Jan. 19, at 1 p.m.

Create paper purses! In this workshop, you will make one-of-a-kind purses from recycled pages of books, postcards and even photos, with our Resident Artist, Diane Bronstein. All skill levels welcome and ages 14 and up. Cost and details to be announced. Call Robin at (928) 779-2300 to inquire.

– The History of Lingerie with Diane Bronstein, Thursday, Jan. 24, at 7 p.m.

Lingerie has a long and interesting history. For hundreds of years, women have worn garments that change the shape of their bodies to suit the prevailing fashion. However, there are societal implications that help determine how women dress and what they wear underneath it all. Join us for this special presentation by Resident Artist, Diane Bronstein. Free.

Share and Enjoy