Vintage lingerie stuff of sirens and legends
June 5, 2012 by admin
Filed under Latest Lingerie News
A Dunedin designer is turning out vintage-inspired,
handcrafted lingerie that is both edgy and classic, Emily
Cannan reports.
Kate Martin provides a sweeping-arm introduction to her home
studio, simultaneously laughing off the quaint but
style-stuffed space from which she works.
Tall rolls of fabrics in a range of paisleys, lace, polka
dots, silks and ruffles obscure the wall, while a rack is
loaded with custom patterns, feather boas and some original
vintage garters and corsets. A large suitcase spills retro
paper patterns on to the floor, and pink and black striped
boxes with satin ribbons are piled against the wall.
Martin points to a montage of images on the wall as she
enthuses about her 1950s pin-up muses, the likes of model
Bettie Page, as I peruse a rail of lace, velvet and silk.
“I love having a theme, a mood and feeling towards each
collection,” she explains.
“My current collection ‘Black Betty’ is all about feeling
luxurious. So I wanted to enhance this by the fabrics: silk
viscose panels fused with smooth cotton lycra …
“High-quality fabric is so important, you want these pieces
to last and feel good for a long time. Also you want the
first layer you put on every morning to feel good against
your skin.”.
The lingerie is truly glamorous, “with a romantic, fun and
flirty twist”, each item perfectly finished with silk bows,
velvet trimming or even a tassel. The range of matching bra
and brief sets are endearingly named Clara, Ava, and Lillian,
and the Peggy Day Garter Skirt is a classically retro piece.
A rack of garments confirms Cupkakes’ pitch-perfect period
styling, with its distinctive 1920s-1950s flair, the rich
fabrics and emphasis on high-quality, handcrafted
construction.
Cupkakes’ clientele are a diverse lot, including synchronised
swimming clubs and burlesque performers, as well as those
simply looking for a special set of custom-made lingerie.
Martin says her line is “for any woman that wants to indulge
in beautiful handcrafted lingerie”.
She also produces a popular beach wear range.
“Dunedin women loved the swimwear, even with our crazy
weather! They are unique compared to what you would find in
your normal store, so my clients were happy to find something
different and flattering.”
Martin is a stickler for quality control, so she handcrafts
everything herself, and most of her designs are custom-made
for her clients, so they fit and feel perfect.
“Construction in lingerie is so important; everything used
has a very specific reason – underwires, soft underwire
casing, elastics, straps, fastening hooks, it’s really
technical.”
After leaving school at 16, Martin was determined to study
fashion and completed a certificate in fashion design at
Otago Polytechnic. Not content, she added a bachelor of
fashion design degree in 2010, when she was only 19. Martin
also received the “most marketable range” Waughs prize for
her final-year collection at the polytechnic.
“I am very focused and determined.
“As soon as I started making lingerie, I wanted to make a job
out of it. So I started in a business mindset.
“Brainstorming business strategy was a real focus in the last
year of the degree. I spent the whole year researching and
learning the techniques of bra-making.”
The designer is now the store manager at Global Fabrics in
Dunedin. After working at several lingerie retail stores in
Dunedin she was inspired by what was on offer, “but I always
felt I could push the boundaries more and have a point of
difference to add to the market”.
Martin says her training in bra-fitting has been crucial in
designing lingerie, understanding how to fit the body, the
curves of women and how particular styles work for different
shapes and sizes.
“I love the feeling of creating and then constructing
something from scratch; seeing the final outcome is very
rewarding. When I see someone wearing a Cupkakes garment and
see how good they not only look, but feel, that’s the best
part.”
Martin nods enthusiastically when I ask about the difficulty
of sourcing the right materials, and learning what has become
a rare craft.
“It was just researching and teaching myself different
techniques and playing around with fabrics, stitches and
shapes, et cetera. The best way to learn is finding out what
works and what doesn’t … looking at what was for sale
already and seeing how they were put together and what women
needed and wanted.
“Starting my business was a lot of hours locked away in my
sewing room and learning as I went through the process, but I
think that’s the fun of it, not following set rules. Just
doing what I love – my passion is my business.”
Martin has plenty of support at home and says she has been
receiving great feedback from all over New Zealand.
“I feel the opportunities are always growing. I’m always
planning a day ahead – you have to. I still want to be
diverse for all types of customers.”
Cupkakes
• See the full range at www.cupkakeslingerie.com.
• Cupkakes is stocked at Above Ground Studio and on www.felt.co.nz.
– Emily Cannan.
